Review: Wente Restaurant offers nearby wine-country dining

The romance of the grape harvest draws many to our nearby wine regions at this time of year, and a day of wine-tasting can make dining in wine country not only desirable, but necessary. Wineries often sell picnic supplies, but very few have full-service restaurants, such as the one at the historic Wente Vineyards in Livermore Valley. In fact, when it opened in 1986, it was only the third winery restaurant in California.

Though it requires a bit of a drive beyond downtown Livermore, Wente doesn’t demand the day-long commitment needed for visiting Sonoma County or Napa Valley from the Bay Area.

Chef Matt Greco — who joined the operation three harvests ago after working for several years in some of New York’s top restaurants — has created a highly seasonal, often changing menu that draws upon the bounty from Wente’s own half-acre organic garden, which Greco tends along with Master Gardener Diane Dovholuk.

On my two recent visits, corn, tomatoes and stone fruit such as nectarines and pluots took pride of place on the menu. The pluot salad ($14), with Pt. Reyes blue cheese, and pine nut granola, was one of the best and most original items we tried, but it is no longer on the menu. If something similar should return, perhaps with apples or pears, do order it.

If you combine a restaurant visit with some wine-tasting, bear in mind that you will have an opportunity to sample some Wente wines on the menu, but they by no means make up the entire list.

The restaurant’s award-winning wine list offers nearly 1,000 choices from around the globe, selected by sommelier Jorge Tinoco. There’s something for every budget and palate, from bottles in the $30-$40 range to cult wines that command hundreds of dollars to choices such as a Screaming Eagle from Napa Valley that will set you back an entire house payment.

We had the good fortune to visit on a night when all bottles of pinot noir (except for Wente’s) were half price. We chose one from the Central Coast that, with the discount, cost no more than we would have spent on two wines by the glass. On another visit, when we wanted something that would perfectly complement our meal, our server steered us to a glass that would pair well with both our appetizer and main course.

For that meal, we started with the duck liver mousse ($9) and the steamed littleneck clams with corn and chorizo ($14). The sauternes peach preserves served atop the mousse made a nice component, but the mousse was too soupy — spoonable, rather than spreadable.

The clams were quite good, but our enjoyment was diminished when the employee who delivered them left quickly, without bringing a serving spoon for the corn, chorizo and tasty tomato-sherry broth or a bowl for the shells. After a few minutes, we had an opportunity to ask for those when our server checked in.

The lasagna with sweet corn and chanterelles ($24) was served in a light cream sauce with a lovely, earthy sweetness accented with rosemary. The homemade pasta was just the right thickness and delicately al dente. But it was cool in the center, and it took several minutes to flag down our server, who returned it to the kitchen for reheating.

In the meantime, I enjoyed some nibbles of the flavorful pork loin and crispy belly ($28), served with a bed of garden greens and a tangy peach chutney that made the dish. It’s a rather small portion, though, so beware if you have a big appetite.

On our subsequent visit, happily everything hit the mark. The pluot salad, which we shared, came out on two plates so we could both enjoy the presentation. Cod ($31) had a golden sear, and it was served with a divinely creamy corn and squash polenta. House-made beef and lamb sausages ($25), with well-balanced chorizo spices, were served on a savory bed of black lentils (also the base for the roast chicken). Lightly cooked cape gooseberries added color and a hint of sweetness.

The pluot tart ($10) was a perfect bookend to the meal. Buttery pastry and a light frangipane filling provided a base for the caramelized sweet-tart fruit. Burnt honey peppercorn ice cream with just a hint of spice (we wouldn’t have minded more than that hint) capped it off. This dish certainly made up for the lackluster corn bread cake ($10) with apricots we had ordered on our previous visit. The cake was fine, but it was accompanied by a few meager slices from half an apricot, at most — probably a sign the season was nearly over.

Despite occasional minor faults in the kitchen and service, Wente has a lovely atmosphere that helps compensate for any bumps. Although this is a fine-dining restaurant, the patio — shaded by sycamore trees — offers views of the tasting room across the lawn and the golden hills beyond. Those who have come for wine tasting can feel comfortable here in smart casual attire.

Inside, the restaurant feels more formal. The white tablecloths are set off by dark wood beams and ceilings, and the large, attractive floral arrangements add a festive note that makes this a perfect place to celebrate birthdays, anniversaries and promotions.

The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards is not only an added attraction for a day of wine-tasting, but a worthy fine-dining destination in itself.